California is the Gwyneth Paltrow of the US: beautiful, blonde, and so easy to mock. Unlike Paltrow, however, California is genuinely versatile, boasting beaches, mountains, and yearlong sunshine – at least in Los Angeles. One of the best parts of living here is driving a few hours to discover one stunning gem after another.
San Luis Obispo County, about three hours north of LA and one hour from Santa Barbara, is a rambling place – the state’s 17th largest county by total area – dotted with adorable getaways. Meander along the 101 for postcard-pretty coastal views that will make you fall in love with the Golden State all over again. Here are some choice spots to hit when you’re in the SLO area.
Hearst Castle
News flash: William Randolph Hearst was loaded. Hearst Castle, his mountaintop colossus, is pure Jay Gatsby decadence.
If you’re a city dweller who marvels at anyone with a spare bedroom and adult-size fridge, Heart Castle offers plenty to both envy and appall. The main house, aptly named Casa Grande, has 38 bedrooms, 42 bathrooms, and more than 68,000 square feet of gilded excess. Even the three guesthouses are mini McMansions surrounded by hypnotic views and tropical flora.
We opted for the basic $25 Grand Rooms tour, but there are a few more options, including a seasonal evening tour during which guides dress in period attire. Jeopardy! host Alex Trebek narrates the 15-minute bus ride to the hilltop castle, sharing interesting trivia about Hearst and the property. After your guided visit, roam the grounds on your own and make it a point to check out the magnificent indoor Roman Pool. If you have extra time, watch the free Hearst biopic screening in IMAX (it’s surprisingly entertaining).
Animal Spotting
While driving to Hearst Castle, you’ll notice cars parked on the side of the road while dozens of people take pictures of zebras grazing among cows. No, you didn’t suddenly teleport to Africa, damn it. William Randolph Hearst, being an eccentric billionaire (is there any other kind?), built a zoo on his property that at one time included polar bears, giraffes, one elephant, and many zebras. While most of the animals were later donated to zoos throughout California or died decades ago, the zebras still wander the grounds.
After leaving Hearst Castle, drive north about 10 minutes until you reach the Elephant Seal Vista Point. Park your car and walk to the water. Watch elephant seals sun their big bellies and scratch their faces with their flippers. Die from cuteness. If you’re there from mid-December to early March, you might even spot baby seals frolicking on the sand.
Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort and Spa
If you like soaking in hot tubs (because who doesn’t?!) you must experience the private hillside tubs at Sycamore Mineral Springs ($13.50/hour Monday–Thursday; $17.50/hour Friday–Sunday). The woodsy views are quiet and the hot springs deeply relaxing. While the resort doesn’t allow alcohol, you can snag a bottle of vino from the gift shop and get sloshed in your room’s private tub. There’s also a hot springs waterfall lagoon if you want to party with your pals. Bonus: If you stay at the resort, you can also take free on-site yoga classes.
Avila Beach
This cute beachside town is a great place to walk along the water without encountering annoying tourists like yourself. While a few swimmers brave the frigid ocean waves, you can browse the adorable shops along the boardwalk. For a healthy morning meal that’s perfectly Californian, stop by Kravabowl for an açaí bowl or the delicious PB+J breakfast bowl. Beach benches are nearby if you want to dine alfresco.
Stay at the Avila Lighthouse Suites (rates start at $169 a night) to wake up oceanside with that beachy salt smell in your nostrils. This boutique hotel offers a heated pool and Jacuzzi, ping-pong, a putting green, and a life-sized checkers board. For you outdoorsy types, surfing, kayaking, biking, and hiking are all within walking distance.
Paso Robles
It may surprise you that Angelenos don’t need to travel to Sonoma for fine wines. Paso Robles has a wealth of local vineyards. Since I’m not an expert on wines (I just drink them), I asked my serious vino aficionados for their recommendation and, hands down, they adore Tablas Creek Vineyard. The tasting room is open daily and offers patio picnic tables for those who want to dine where they wine.
Madonna Inn
It’s impossible not to notice this sprawling landmark hotel when driving along the 101. Built in 1958, the original motel had only 12 rooms but later expanded to 40 – and now 110 – unique accommodations. By unique, I mean flamboyant, over the top, kitschy – we’re talking themed rooms with names like Old Mexico, Swiss Chalet, Fabulous Fifties, and Canary Cottage. Even the hotel restaurant, the Gold Rush Steak House, is an explosion of pink seats, gold lights, and ornate carpets. And the Terrace Pool Bar offers superb views and cocktails. You have to see it to believe how something so garish can be so wonderful.
San Luis Obispo
Named one of the country’s friendliest towns (by no less an authority than USA Today), this is the classic picturesque college town packed with the finer things in life: coffee, beer, and great food.
For vegans or anyone who likes Café Gratitude, Bliss Cafe is a must eat. I highly recommend the All Day Breakfast Tacos ($9.50), the Green Energy Bowl ($8), and any of the smoothies. The ideal date nightspot is Novo Restaurant and Lounge. Snag an outdoor table for creekside dining under the stars. The Asian-influenced menu is delicious no matter what you order.
If you’re a fan of Blue Bottle coffee shops and indie bookstores, Kreuzberg Coffee Company is your perfect java joint. The brekky offerings are great, and the walls are plastered with portraits of celebrated authors. The family-friendly and colorful Big Sky Cafe is ideal for groups with its expansive Asian, Mediterranean, and Creole-inspired menu – everyone will be happy. Linnaea’s is one of those local spots that smells mouthwatering as soon as you enter. The pastries (including vegan options), coffee, and teas are all delicious, and the back patio is a chill backdrop for reading or writing the great American novel.
There are quite a few notable breweries in town, namely the Creekside Brewing Company and Tap It Brewing, but for brews and music, hang out at SLO Brew. With a long list of taps, fun cocktails, pool tables, shuffleboard, and music videos, this is a great place to hear bands in the downstairs lounge, or just grab a post-dinner drink.
There are also plenty of shops to poke your head into, and Ambiance is a fun boutique for shopping. The T-shirts on the second floor are hilarious (“Trust me, you’re a great dancer. –Vodka” is one of my faves). For vinyl record fans, Cheap Thrills is your best bet for optimal browsing. If comic books are your jam, my husband highly recommends Dr. Cain’s Comics and Games. His review: “Friendly staff, diverse selection of comics, and well organized.” I’ll take his word for it.
Finally, to work some art and culture into your trip, stop by the San Luis Obispo Museum of Art. The low-key gallery is free and ideal for strolling post-breakfast.
Photo courtesy of ThinkStock
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