When the marine layer and winter chill starts to creep into LA, locals head about 120 miles into the desert to Palm Springs to chase the sun and palm trees framing the San Jacinto Mountains. Now through March is the peak traffic time for high profile events such as the Film Festival in early January and Modernism Week in mid-February, which draw an eclectic crowd up until the Coachella music festival and the gay pride themed White Party in April. Refurbished hotels, elevated dining experiences, along with a new museum and stunning mid-century modern architecture help seduce people here year round.
Art & Architecture Scene
Right now, the talk of the town is the newly opened 13,000 square-foot glass encased steel building housing the Architecture + Design Center of the Palm Springs Art Museum.
Currently showing is An Eloquent Modernist, E. Stewart Williams, Architect exhibit. Williams was one of the most important architects of the Desert Modern Style and designed the museum, formerly a savings and loan building, in 1961. The structure was rehabilitated by the architecture firm Marmol Radziner, who also restored the famed Neutra-designed Kaufmann House.
Hop on Hop Off
It's no longer an issue if North Palm Canyon Drive is packed with traffic on the weekends. The city recently introduced a trolley called ‘the buzz’ that runs along the main drag and drops passenger off at various hot spots for dining, drinking, shopping and perusing art. If you want an area view, take a ride on the Palm Springs Ariel Tramway that takes you up the side of a mountain for a view of the entire valley so you can plan your next move.
Unusual Activities
Hit Palm Springs Windmill Tours for a behind the scenes tour of a working windmill farm. This region boasts more than 4,000 windmills over 70 square miles, powering the entire Coachella Valley.
Or take garden stroll on a 17-acre date farm complete with statuary, café, and signature date shakes at Shields Date Garden in Indio — where else can you view the film The Romance and Sex Life of the Date for free?
The Living Desert in Palm Desert is a zoo and garden dedicated to conservation and educations with camel rides and giraffe feedings for kids.
Hotels with History
From retro inns to Mediterranean-inspired villas, Palm Springs has a collection of over 70 small hotels and historic inns. The former owners of the Mediterranean Korakia Pensione have opened Sparrows Hotel, a 19-room ranch style getaway. The 1950s property was previously known as El Rancho Lodge and has been completely overhauled and restored. Each room is adorned with an outdoor fireplace and hand-built furniture, and the property’s original barn will be the focal point for communal dining and entertainment.
Lurking behind the heart of the town is a row of apartment style hotels on North Indian Canyon Road that used to be infamous for mobsters to keep a pied-à-terre for their mistresses back in the day. Adjoining The Movie Colony neighborhood, The Colony Palms (see photo above) anchors a once-dormant commercial area that’s blossomed in the last few years with new hotels and restaurants. The 1936 Spanish-style Colony Palms property was a past playground for Kirk Douglas, Humphrey Bogart, Howard Hughes, and Ronald Reagan and was owned by mobster Al Wertheimer part of the Purple Gang. There is an underground level that according to local legend operated as a casino and speakeasy. Completely revamped by Bravo TV’s Million Dollar Decorator Martyn- Lawrence Bullard, the vibe is now hip Moroccan meets the South of France with a full service eatery, spa, and pool area.
Next door to The Colony Palms is another former Hollywood hangout, The Spanish Inn, built in 1939. The long-shuttered property has been undergoing a major over haul that just reopened just weeks ago as the Triada – a Marriott Autograph Boutique Hotel. The property was owned by Alan Ladd, Jr. and once boasted Elizabeth Taylor as a resident. Now they have chicly designed rooms, a salt water pool, and a low-key restaurant that is poised to be the next destination dining spot in town.
New and Improved Dining
If you are suffering from the night before, The Ace Hotel has a wonderfully filling egg scramble veggie concoction that will last you up until dinner. For something lighter, head to the French inspired L’Atelier Deli for freshly baked goods — you can also parlay this into cold cuts for lunch or wait on line at The Sandwich Spot nearby. At the Sandwich Spot, order the “Federer” with heated turkey, prosciutto, and Swiss cheese on Dutch crunch bread with ‘everything’ including peppers, onions, and ‘bomb’ sauce, which is a buttermilk meets ranch concoction. The absolute best – and heathiest lunch deal in town, is from the new French chef at Citron in the Viceroy Hotel who whips up international Bento Boxes from Japanese to Provencal for $15.00 each.
For an afternoon pick me up, skip the coffee and head for 1950s inspired Great Shakes. They serve dozens of varieties from banana with whipped cream to chocolate malt so thick you will need a spoon to dig in.
Dinner should be shared Basque tapas style with small plates at the intimate dining venue Tinto which just reopened in the super cool, brightly colored Saguaro Hotel. This is the brainchild of Iron Chef Jose Garces with an original location in Philly. Order Jamon Iberico thinly sliced and Manchego cheese to start, then move on to the heartier Spanish octopus and potato with paprika; lamb meatballs in a sherry cream sauce or thinly sliced skirt steak with a spicy salsa verde. Small but mighty selections of Spanish wines by the glass are also paired with the dishes.
Shopping to Look the Part
Palm Springs is a treasure trove for vintage clothing and furniture. For men and women’s groovy swim and resort wear clothing, Mitchell’s looks like a dressing room straight out of Studio 54 with '70s and '80s styles of eveningwear including costume jewelry, sunglasses, and handbags. Be sure to try on those Pucci bell-bottoms just to check out the crocheted dressing room drapes. For newer fashions this is where the iconic Southern California designer Trina Turk has her flagship store for men and women. It would appear that the vintage inspired poolside hipster patterns and brightly colored outfits were invented here.
Stop by Christopher Anthony to load up on mid-century modern glass coffee tables, funky chairs, patio furniture, ceramics, and other finds for your home. For something that will fit in your suitcase, visit the newly opened Products for the Palm Springs Lifestyle on North Palm Canyon Drive to take home bric-a-brac and gifts from 20th Century inspired mugs to t-shirts and hats. It might sound touristy but it’s actually cool stuff.
Off the Beaten Path Luxury
While your traipsing around the dessert – maybe even hiking in Joshua Tree National Forest, drop by LaQuinta Resort & Club for a look around the 45 acre grounds filled with desert flora and fruit trees. Built in 1926, the views of the Santa Rosa Mountains from the Spanish meets California style architecture are stunning as the sun sets on the palm trees lining the property. There is a village plaza with shops, restaurants, plenty of fire pits and fountains to ponder if you’re just day-tripping. A must is the dozen eggs Benedict dishes offered at BAR TWENTY6 for breakfast range from the traditional ham to crab to Bilboa chorizo, Reuben corned beef, and shaved short rib. Stop upstairs in the Adobe Grill for a margarita – choose from 100 types of tequila, and maybe even head to the spa for a signature citrus scrub.
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Museum photo by Daniel Chavkin, bento box by Carole Dixon, Colony Palms Hotel courtesy of the hotel, tram photo by Rex Brown.