For many San Franciscans, West Portal is merely a spot on a map, the last major Muni station before the K, L, and M lines branch off in different directions. Those of us who have hopped off the train at Ulloa Street know better – that this small commercial district, encircled by residential neighborhoods and extending only to St. Francis Circle, is in fact an urban village full of hidden gems. Though I no longer call West Portal home, I spent much of my childhood and adolescence in the neighborhood, and it remains one of my favorite hubs in the city. While a few chain stores have encroached, you’ll find a plethora of restaurants and boutiques, some of which have been around for generations.
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CinéArts at the Empire
As small neighborhood movie theaters in the city dwindle, CinéArts at the Empire is still going strong. The old-timey facade will bring you back to an earlier era, and the smell of popcorn will lure you in even if you weren’t feeling like a movie. Parking is relatively easy, and you’ll avoid big crowds too. It’s not the fanciest venue, but the facilities are slowly being upgraded, and the quaintness makes it worthwhile.
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Bookshop West Portal
Anyone who loves to read knows that, like independent movie theaters, our local bookstores are in danger. Ditch Amazon and swing by Bookshop West Portal for a wide variety of books, as well as posters, literary-themed tote bags, and other knickknacks. On top of being a quality bookstore, it hosts events, has a weekly book club, and even knitting classes.
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The Music Store
This used record store is a goldmine for those seeking cheap CDs, records, cassette tapes, or posters, and every so often the owner invites a local musician to play. Indeed, one of my proudest moments is when my eighth grade band, Molly in the Tenderloin, graced the store’s modest stage. With a laid-back ambiance and friendly staff, you can spend hours browsing – as long as Molly in the Tenderloin isn’t playing.
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Ambassador Toys
A wonderland for children and emotionally arrested adults alike! Come here to buy unique toys for the youngsters in your life, cram your mouth with gumballs from the quarter machine, or just take in the atmosphere of an independent toy store – more of a rarity these days than one might think. Ambassador Toys was named the “Best Toy Store You Wish Had Been Around When You Were a Kid” by the San Francisco Bay Guardian, and it’s been a neighborhood staple for almost 20 years, so you can expect quality.
After all this shopping, you’ll probably need something to eat. Luckily, the restaurants on West Portal are just as great as the shops.
Pizza
No neighborhood is complete without a good pizzeria, and on West Portal you’ll find two. Mozzarella di Bufala is a long-standing institution, which opened in 1992 and continues to thrive in the community. A warm, inviting sit-down restaurant, you won’t leave disappointed. And unlike your average Italian restaurant, Mozzarella di Bufala offers authentic Brazilian food as well as typical fare like pasta, salads, sandwiches, and its excellent New York–style pizza.
For those looking for a cheaper slice of pizza on the go, Goat Hill Pizza, on the corner of Vicente and West Portal, opened just a few years ago. A local chain that first opened in Potrero Hill in 1975, it has been a welcome addition to the neighborhood. You can pick from the three daily items, order a customized pizza, or grab a salad if you want something lighter.
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Asian Cuisine
From Xiao Loong to Fuji Japanese Restaurant, Clay Oven to Roti Indian Bistro, visitors to West Portal have their pick of quality Asian food. Fuji’s is the first place I hit up when I’m in the mood for udon, and the pork fried rice at Xiao Loong is addictive. Price-wise, they’re not exactly cheap, but they have good options if you’re looking for a nice dinner with friends or family.
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Manor Coffee Shop
This retro diner is one of the most beloved restaurants on West Portal. It’s been around for as long as I can remember, and you’ll find remnants of the past everywhere you look: from the 1950s lunch counters and booths to the old pictures of San Francisco that adorn the wall. The menu is huge and varied, and it’s open from breakfast to dinner. Bring your appetite, because the portions are big.
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West Portal Produce and Eezy Freezy
Want to save some money and make your own dinner? Safeway may be a few blocks away on Taraval, but with these two stores nearby, you’ll never need to go there. West Portal Produce has a thorough selection of fruits and vegetables, cheaper than anything in a chain supermarket, and you can get everything else at Eezy Freezy. Its many offerings include a large spice rack, an aisle of gourmet chocolate, and various snacks from all over the world. Make sure you get a baklava from the box near the cash register before you head out.
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Shaws
No dinner is complete without dessert afterwards, and you can’t go wrong with Shaws. Though Bi-Rite and Mitchell’s are more famous haunts for local ice cream lovers, anyone with a sweet tooth will be equally satisfied with a cone from here. Shaws boasts an excellent candy selection too: truffles, toffees, and anything else you can dream up.
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Nightlife (Sort of)
Okay, you’re probably not going to have a wild night on West Portal, but if you’re just looking for good beer and company – whether with strangers or friends – there are more than enough options. My personal favorite is the Philosophers Club, one of the mellowest bars I’ve found in the city. You can catch a Niners or Giants game on the four TVs (or an A’s game, if you’re one of those people), and the dulcet tones of the jukebox are never loud enough to interrupt conversation. I also gleaned from a professor that it’s a favorite hangout for MFA students from SF State, so you may find yourself among the literati as well – philosophers, indeed.
With four streetcar lines serving the neighborhood, it's easy to seek out excitement elsewhere, but I always feel comforted passing through this tucked-away community. It's a place where the familiarity and coziness of a small town blends perfectly with San Francisco’s vibrant urban life, a place that feels like home.
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