The Empress of China will not be mourned for its food but rather its atmospheric mix of high kitsch and history. Who knew Han Dynasty antiquities lent the perfect backdrop for pics of a sleepy-drunk Peter Lawford? The 48-year-old Chinatown institution will serve its last syrupy Mai Tai at the end of this year — its mid-century chinoiserie being swapped out for office space and something called “tech play” — leaving devotees of its time warp lounge in search of another transportive bar to call home. You probably already know Li Po and The Tonga Room, so here are six others that should do in a pinch:

FISHERMAN’S GROTTO #9

The Grotto has three bars nestled throughout its expansive space, but the Draper-esque second-floor lounge — with blue tufted chairs, a fireplace, a fish tank and bronzes of Neptune and Salacia — is a marvel. It’s not only a worthy sub for the Empress of China but also the closest thing we have to the Madonna Inn. (See photo above)

Drink: Manhattan served on vintage napkins. 

Instagram: The Little Fisherman mascot that appears everywhere.

2851 Taylor St. (415) 673-7025

FAR EAST CAFE

Opened a year after Tosca Cafe, the Far East feels like the Chinatown equivalent of its North Beach contemporary. It sports a noirish Spade & Archer vibe. Park it at the front bar under colorful antique gas lanterns and faded murals. 

Drink: Bottle of Tsingtao. 

Instagram: The cool private booths that line the dining room.

631 Grant Ave. (415) 982-3245

CATHAY HOUSE

A cylindrical red structure hides a fun dive bar in the middle of this historic Chinatown dining room. Look for the iconic pagoda-capped building at the cable car corner of California and Grant. 

Drink: Shots of Hennessy. 

Instagram: Irresistible chinoiserie including a Deco Buddha shrine at the head of the bar.

718 California St. (415) 982-3388

ALFRED’S STEAKHOUSE

This seductive hideaway is the happy result of a 1928 steakhouse relocated in the former space of the lavish 1940s celebrity haunt, The Blue Fox. Expect a windowless interior with deep crimson walls, opulent chandeliers, vest & tie waiters, and an alcove bar that flaunts a wall full of whiskey. 

Drink: Vesper served in an oversized shaker. 

Instagram: The Prohibition violation that shut down the restaurant in 1929 and hangs over the bar.

659 Merchant St. (415) 781-7058

BIMBO’S 365 CLUB

Yep, you'll have to pay a cover for a show to get in, but it’s worth the opportunity to bask in this sumptuous former dinner club that’s changed little since 1951. In a just world, the dreamy mermaid paintings by Julian “Nudes and Clowns” Ritter would be as big a draw as the acts onstage. Grease some palms to get a peek of the hidden — and amazing — Mr. Bimbo’s Cantina where performers like Sinatra would sup before a show. 

Drink: Champagne. 

Instagram: Dolphina, the Girl in the Fishbowl.

1025 Columbus Ave (415) 474-0365

ZAM ZAM

A pair of minarets guard the entrance to this oasis of Moorish arches, a Persian fairy tale mural, and intimate, semi-circular bar. The legendary Bruno may have gone to that big Kasbah in the sky, but the martinis and candle-lit ambience remain. 

Drink: Bruno’s drink: Martini made with Boord's gin and Boissiere vermouth. You don’t like it, you can get out

Instagram: That mural.

1633 Haight St., (415) 861-2545