Marin County has been my home since my family left the north of England in 1988 to settle in Novato. We grew up ditching school to surf Bolinas, driving the back roads to keggers at Limantour or Muir Beach, and running wild in the endless magical forests. But somehow I never stopped to appreciate how crazy beautiful my backyard was.
The second I graduated from high school, I ran away from here thinking Marin was too slow and the cause of all my 17-year-old angst. But throughout the years of hard-learned lessons and dead-end streets, I always came back to Marin County.
This county changes, but never too much or too fast. The Christopher B. Smith Film Center is still where it was built in 1938. Marin Joe's Restaurant, in Corte Madera, is still open for business. And while Larkspur Landing has since become the more gentrified Marin Country Mart, we still have about 80% preserved open space and an army of aging hippies who fiercely guard our mountains and trails.
Marin may be synonymous with hiking and fleece pullovers, but there are some hidden gems that are worth checking out.
San Quentin
One can’t miss the Q– the maximum-security prison that sits looming on the edge of the water. It has the largest number of death row inmates in the country and has housed the likes of Charles Manson and Tookie Williams. Built in 1852, it's scared many people straight, including me. If you’d like a closer look, visit the San Quentin Prison Gift Shop located just outside the gates. The maker movement thrives here in Marin – only these artisans are serving 20 to life. Plus, you can purchase a vaguely sinister convict-made greeting card or wallet. It’s pretty amazing.
OnBoardSUP
After a brief introductory lesson, Leigh Claxton will lead you from Sausalito out along the houseboats for a peaceful, stand-up paddle ride under a full moon. There are all sorts of classes, rides, and experiences offered through OnBoardSUP, but check the calendar for the full moon rides.
Lava House
Jerry Ganz started to build a McMansion in Tiburon in the '70s, importing giant lava rocks from Hawaii. Construction stopped as quickly as it began, leaving the property a maze of unfinished stairs, weird rock decks, and breathtaking views. It’s a strange place to explore; the myth being the God of the Volcano cursed the workers for stealing the rocks, causing freak accidents and halting the building. This is technically private property, so visit at your own risk.
Monday Night Dharma Talk at Spirit Rock
If 12-step groups, therapy, and good living just aren’t quite enough, check out Jack Kornfield’s class on awareness and compassion. Spirit Rock is a beautiful place to become acquainted with, and these weekly sessions have a community feel that is hard to find just anywhere.
Mana Bowls
There’s only so much green juice I can get into my body, so I was pleased to happen upon this little gem. The acai bowls (acai, apple juice, hemp granola, and whatever fruit you’d like to add) are under 10 dollars, customizable, and a nice alternative to kale.
Avatar’s Punjabi Burrito
In downtown Mill Valley, this Avatar’s is my favorite of the four locations. It’s nestled on a side street with the best seating outside. You have to order the curried pumpkin burrito with chicken or lamb. A tiny piece of Indian deliciousness in the heart of MILF Valley. (Yeah, there are a lot of MILFs here.)
The Inkwells
It can get hot as balls in Marin, so if you don’t belong to a country club or can’t handle urine-filled public pools, there is a gorgeous spot in Lagunitas where you can cool off. The Inkwells pools appear black due to their depth. There is a good 20-ft. jump off the main rock and ample space to lay out a blanket and dry off. I may or may not have jumped off the red footbridge that takes you over the water. Said jump is prohibited.
Christopher B. Smith Film Center
On funky Fourth Street in San Rafael is a special place to view the latest independent movies or fabulous old greats like Lawrence of Arabia. Originally named the Orpheus in the early 1900s, the theater was rebuilt in 1938 after destroyed by a fire, and it’s stood as the Smith Rafael ever since. It’s next door to Aroma Cafe and two blocks from famous Sol Food.
Marin Country Mart
Opposite the ferry terminal and previously called Larkspur Landing, this plaza is the brainchild of Jim Rosenfield – the man who revitalized the historic Brentwood Country Mart in Los Angeles. My favorite aspects of this place are the farmers’ market on Saturdays, a food truck market on Sundays, and the free movie nights for kids on the grass on Wednesdays. It’s very Marin-y, but impossible not to enjoy.
Red Dragon Yoga
Wendy Medeiros used to be a makeup artist for a strip club in SF when she got interested in yoga. She teaches at the Mill Valley location a couple of days a week and has developed a cult following for people dedicated to the practice. Her one-hour classes are packed so tight, you will sweat on your neighbor. So be prepared.
The Sweetwater
Sweetwater was a bar in Mill Valley where Elvis Costello, Jerry Garcia, and Santana frequented and played. It was a sort-of clubhouse for local musicians. The BBC even made a documentary about its history in 1992. It closed down in 2007, but the new Sweetwater Music Hall (opposite Mill Valley’s town hall) has been open now since 2011, and still has that old, special feeling. It’s cozy and there’s a music show almost every evening. You might even see Jerry Harrison (Talking Heads) wolfing some sliders.
From a San Francisco POV, Marin may not be the epicenter of cool. There are fewer old-fashioned moustaches and mixologists here, but maybe that’s a good thing. Some of the criticisms of Marin – too sterile, too white, too wealthy – are merited. But if you overlook the Land Rovers and Patagonia puffy jackets, there is a much richer culture than may be seen at first glance. I for one am grateful to be able to raise my kids here. Besides, any place that Metallica calls home can’t be hella bad.
Photos by Maia Welch
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